(update 3-23-18) After a year and a half the primary power connector on the mainboard got hot which caused a bad smell, the display went out and the printer stopped working... This has been a known weak point on this and many other 3d printers which use a 12v power supply. There simply is too much current running through the small connectors to the mainboard when they are supplying power to a heated bed. The cure in my case was to throw away the bad connector and solder the supply wires directly to the prongs that the connector had been attatched to. I then added a "Heat Bed Power Module Expansion board" to the circuit that supplies power to the bed to avoid any future problems. It sounds complicated and expensive but it is not. There are numerous videos and tutorials with step by step directions. Just search for "maker select v2 mosfet". I purchased the "BIQU Heat Bed Power Module" for about $8 on Amazon. There is no soldering required if you make the mod before the connector fails which would have saved some time. There are many people who claim that this problem is "dangerous" but all of the components are contained in a metal enclosure so it is mostly a threat only to your mainboard.
Despite the problem mentioned in the edit above... I still believe that the Monoprice 13860 Maker Select 3d Printer V2.1 is one of the very best values for an entry level 3D Printer. You can read and research for months, but you are not really going to learn much until you take the plunge and start working with a 3D Printer. This is a fantastic printer that gets better with every mod that is made to it.
As others have noted this is a "rebadged" Wanhao Duplicator I3. The same printer is rebadged by several other companies as well, so it is known by several names. Largely as a result of input received from the community of users that has come together on internet forums this printer has evolved since it was first released. Many of the improvements that people started making early on are now already incorporated into the printers now being sold. Over the past year counting all of the output under the various names it has quietly become one of the most popular entry level 3D Printers in the world. This is because it simply is a great value when you compare its features and potential with other offerings.
There are many very good reviews both here on Amazon and in many other places on the internet. Many of the issues mentioned in reviews even just from a few months ago have been corrected. I would like to comment just on my experiences with it so far and my thoughts as someone who has much experience with computers starting from the early 1980s and also with the manufacturing process who worked as millwright for about a decade many years ago.
This printer comes very well packaged, but you need to be very careful when removing it from the packing because there are cable assemblies and small parts which can be easily damaged. This is a deceptively complex device despite its uncomplicated looking appearance. It basically comes with all the pieces that are provided in kits that can take many hours, days or even weeks to complete... only already assembled.
Many of the highly critical reviews actually reflect as much about the person writing the review as they do about the printer itself. Specifically, reviews from people who claim to have sent multiple printers back are generally from people who should not have purchased this type of printer to start with. Despite my great enthusiasm for this printer. There are many people who will never be happy with this printer and should not buy one. This printer has incredible potential and gives the user many options. The many options mean that it is easy to inadvertently screw things up. It will print the examples that come with it right out of the box, but to master it will take some time and patience.
Our Monoprice 13860 came with a broken limit switch behind the moving platform. The printer uses mostly off the shelf parts that are easy to find replacements for. I went to Radio Shack for a couple of dollars and bought a replacement that was similar to get the printer working. I then emailed Monoprice and they sent me the correct replacement part which arrived a few days later. I am still using the Radio Shack part however. The Monoprice support people were helpful, but the real help is on the online forums which have a huge following mostly under the Wanhao name.
Currently we have had the printer for a little less than a month. I downloaded and printed many upgrades for it from Thingiverse. I printed out a lot of fun stuff that other people designed. I also have designed and printed several original designs that I put together myself using software that is free to home users. My two favorites are 123D Design from Autodesk and their more advanced program Fusion 360. Both are extremely good programs and the full versions are both provided totally free to home users. And there are great tutorials available for both programs. I would suggest that you do start with 123D Design.
A couple notable projects... I designed and printed out a gear box with a 36 to 1 increase to hand crank a 12v 6w bicycle for powering lights and charging batteries and cell phones. It is much more powerful than the little ones you can buy. I printed out a flange that attaches an aluminum adapter to run our home generator on natural gas. I have also printed out hard to find replacement gears for a couple different tools. These gears and parts are best printed with special filaments that are designed for the type of service the parts are intended for.
Many of the printers that were designed for the plug and play crowd will not handle any filament other than the type that the manufacturers sell for them. To get good results someone else has figured out all the optimum settings for the preselected filament which by strange coincidence costs multiple times what bulk filament from other sources cost. Interestingly enough filaments that are sold on Amazon and are made from the same basic material PLA, ABS, Nylon, etc. etc. often behave differently. For instance in PLA black seems to stick to the printing bed better than white.
Nylon needs a different type of bed adhesive than PLA and you need to turn off the fan that cools the filament as it is being printed. ABS must have the printing bed heated to a high temperature and it works best if you cover the printer with a tub to keep the heat in. There are many variables that you can easily control with this printer that will make things work better or worse depending especially on the filament that you are using. In a little less than a month I have discovered through research on the forums etc. and experience a lot that is helping me get great results. I have learned a lot.
This printer has literally been running night and day since we got it. I have already put hundreds of hours on it and gone through full spools and miles of filament. The bearings under the print bed get the most abuse and are a little problematic and I have ordered replacement bushings. They haven't gone out yet, but if you do not keep them properly lubed they start feeling pretty stiff and I do not trust them. I have done a number of other mods that have helped me to get amazing results. There are many videos on YouTube especially that show the types of mods that people like to do.
At this point in time, I think that a 3D Printer is a valuable tool for a home shop. Learning 3D modeling with professional quality software that hobbyists can get free licensing for has been exciting. In just a little less than a month I am able to design and print out my own useful parts, creations and replacement parts in various materials. This is something that can augment a wood working shop, machine shop, home shop, or just a tinkerer with printer sitting in the kitchen. For me this has been a great new endeavor. I have had failed prints when trying new filament, and I have had some that have turned out incredible just downloading and printing from Thingiverse or some other source and printing them out. It is not for everyone and it will take a little patience but there can be a lot of reward as well. I have learned a lot and will update this review in another couple months.
(Update 01-19-2017) We have had the printer for approximately 2 months now. The first month we literally had it printing night and day. At this point we are still using it frequently, but have become much more proficient at designing our own parts using the software mentioned previously. It is very gratifying to come up with an idea, crate a 3D model and then print it out. We have a shop with a lot of tools and I am proficient in both metal and woodworking, but this adds a new dimension. While I took drafting in college decades ago, I seldom used this skill when making metal and wooden objects. Now this new software makes it easier to create not only drawings with precise specifications, but be able to create the parts with little effort afterwards, and they are repeatable.
There is much more to 3D Printing than one realizes initially. You can learn a lot by reading the forums for this and similar printers. We have no regrets that we started with this printer and it should meet our needs for quite a while down the road. Because a big job can take so long, having more than one 3D Printer is very common among enthusiasts. Personally, I am more inclined to use the new skills I have learned designing 3D objects by eventually adding a CNC router or milling machine to our shop.
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From the manufacturer
- Includes 2GB microSD card preloaded with printable 3D models out of the box
- Includes sample PLA filament
- Heated build plate allows for high-reliability printing
- Can use compatible software, such as Cura, Repetier, or Simplify 3D
Print with any type of 3D filament
With the ability to print any type of 3D filament and a price point lower than most DIY kits, this entry-level 3D printer is the easiest and least expensive way to join the 3D printing revolution!
Maker Select 3D Printer v2
At less than the price of a new gaming console, give the gift of creativity!
Choose to give the innovative and creative gift of learning. If you're ready to take your ideas and designs from paper or CAD file to the next level, the Monoprice Maker Select 3D Printer is the perfect starter solution for your needs!
Tighten just 6 screws and be printing in 10 minutes
Unlike kit-based printers, which require experience, and time to assemble, the Maker Select 3D Printer is easy to assemble and includes everything you need to begin printing right out of the box.
Print Now:
Unlike DIY kits, this printer comes almost fully assembled and comes with everything you need, including sample PLA filament and a microSD card with sample 3D model files, ready to print!
Compatible Software:
With the ability to use both open-source and commercial software, such as Cura, Repetier, or Simplify 3D, the Maker Select 3D Printer is compatible with Windows, Mac OS X, and Linux.
Large Volume:
The large 8 x 8 inch build plate and generous 7 inch vertical spacing means that you can print larger, more complex models.
Features
3D Filament
Print with any type of 3D filament including ABS-based, PLA-based, XT copolyester, PET, TPU, TPC, FPE, PVA, HIPS, Jelly, Foam, and Felty.
Heated Build Plate
The heated build plate allows you to print slower cooling materials, such as ABS and modified ABS, as well as PLA and PLA blends.
MicroSD Card Slot
Use a microSD card to store sliced GCode files, then plug the card into the microSD card slot to print without the need to connect to a Windows or Mac PC. The printer includes a 2GB microSD card with sample 3D models, which you can slice and store on the card for direct printing.
MP Select Mini
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MP Select Mini PRO
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Maker Select V2
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Maker Plus 10 Mini
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Maker Plus 10
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Ultimate
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| Build Area | 120x120x120mm | 120x120x120mm | 200x200x180mm | 200x200x180mm | 300x300x400mm | 200x200x175mm |
| Resolution | 100-300 micron | 100-300 micron | 100-400micron | 50-300 microns | 50-300 microns | 20-200micron |
| Printing Speed | up to 55 mm/s | up to 100 mm/s | up to 70 mm/s | up to 100 mm/s | up to 100 mm/s | up to 150 mm/s |
| Max Extruder Temp | 250℃ | 280℃ | 240℃ | 280℃ | 280℃ | 260℃ |
| Heated Build Plate | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |
| Removable Plate | no data | ✓ | no data | ✓ | ✓ | no data |
| Filament Sensor | no data | no data | no data | ✓ | ✓ | no data |
| Calibration | Manual leveling | Assisted leveling | Manual leveling | Assisted leveling | Assisted leveling | Manual leveling |
| Connectivity | Color LCD Screen, Micro USB, Micro SD card, WiFi | Color TouchScreen, Micro USB, Micro SD card, WiFi | Mini USB, Micro SD Card | Touchscreen, Micro USB, Micro SD card, WiFi | Touchscreen, Micro USB, Micro SD card, WiFi | LCD Screen, USB, SD Card |
| Supported Slicing Software | Cura, Repetier-Host | Cura, Repetier-Host | Cura | Cura, Repetier-Host, KISSlicer | Cura, Repetier-Host, KISSlicer | Cura |
Worked great for 6 weeks. Hoping Monoprice will replace bad power supply under the 1 year warrenty. You should buy this printer.
I was planning on giving a 4 or 5 star review but was unlucky and had an issue 6 weeks into using the printer and will probably bump up the rating once my issue is resolved. The printer was printing really well with PLA. I then set the bed temperature from the default 60C to 75C and it stopped working. The printer will now start prints but reboots mid print. I think there may be an issue with the power supply because it also tripped the breaker in the house. I have contacted Monoprice to see if they will honor the 1 year warranty. If you get this printer the first thing you should do is manually set the hot end and printer bed up to the max settings to verify you do not have a faulty power supply. I wish I would have done this because you can send back the printer to Amazon if the power supply or any other part is faulty as long as you are in the 30 day window, but after that you will need to working with Monoprice directly. Nov 1, 2016 Update: Monoprice sent me an email regarding the issue and asked me for the Amazon invoice so I am hoping they can resolve the issue. Nov 4th: Monoprice issued a RMA number so that I can return my unit. Nov 7th: Printer is on the way back to Monoprice. Nov 14th: Printer delivered to Monoprice. Nov 16th:Replacement printer has been shipped, things are proceeding well. Nov 20th: Got new replacement printer and it is working great. Once I run this printer some more I will probably give it another star. I had a filament jam due to my own fault but was able to clear it by removing 2 screws. The filament had wrapped around the extruder gear but it was easy to take out. The one thing that is a huge factor with this printer is that there are a ton of videos for this model so when something goes wrong it is easy to search the internet for solutions. There are extra items included -- keep these in a safe place because they will make life easier if you have a filament jam. In particular, the drill bit and long wire (piano wire). I liked that these were included because sooner or later you are bound to have a filament jam if you try printing with different materials since they all have different heating properties. In doing research, I found out that heated air chambers are patented by one company so that is why many vendors may have an enclosure, but it is not heated. I found a large clear tupperware storage container that I now pace over the printer with a space heater that has a thermostat set so the air temperature is at 90F. Don't let the air temp. go higher than 100F because it will make the filament to soft and cause it to wrap around the extruder gear. If you are printing filament other than PLA then you may be able to go up to 114F. In order to get everything under the tupperware container, I had to print a filament spool holder. The spool holder that I have found to work best uses a 608 bearings, also know as a skate board bearing. One the photos has the spool holder with the 608 bearings. I tried a spool holder that had a short base and sometimes the spool for get pulled off the holder. Take care to keep the filament tight because if it becomes too loose on the spool it will tangle will can cause your print to fail after your print job has been running for a few hours. Also, keep your filament spools in a zip lock bag so that they don't go bad, the filament will absorb moisture which will cause defects in the printed object. If this happens you will need to dry your the spool by placing it in the oven for 140 minutes. Looks up the exact temp. for the type of filament you are using. You need to pre-heat the oven and let it sit at that temperature for 10 minutes because most ovens will overshoot the target temp and gradually drop down but this may melt the actual spool that holds the filament. Placing everything under the large tupperware container has made a huge difference on not having to have the bed leveled to a high degree because the filament (I use Hatchbox PLA) sticks super well. In fact it sticks so well that I use blue tape to make getting the print of the bed. I have the control unit placed outside of the tupperware so it does not overheat. Some say that the Maker select Plus is nicer because the controller and power supply is mounted on the frame, but if you want to use a heated chamber this is a disadvantage because the controller board and power supply will over heat-- so get this model. The Maker Select Plus does not use the standard Melzi board most likely due to the touch screen code. That means the code has not had as much testing coverage vs. using the stock open source code. My coworker got the maker select mini which uses a modified code base running on a different chip architecture and when trying to print a more complex 3D model the print stopped at 80% mark when printing from the SD card, but he was able to make the print work when printing from the USB cable. We think that this is related to the controller board not using stock open source firmware. We investigated if we could update the firmware but could not find adequate documentation to proceed. You can also print a base frame so you can carry the controller and x-y-z frame as one piece. My unit has adjustable the Z endstop which you need if you decide to print on glass. I control this printer with OctoPrint (OctoPI) and AstroPrint. OctoPI lets me see the gcode that is get executed on the printer. If need to monitor the print while away from home, I run AstroPrint because I don't have to open up any firewalls. OctoPrint and AstroPrint are free and work well with this printer. Also, it seems like I have the latest version with the large metal thumbscrews about the size a a nickel used to adjust the bed which I have only done once so far. My version also came with the fiber washers between the build plate and springs pushing against the thumbscrews. I also noticed that my version has z-motor dampeners which helps with print quality. Another feature that has become a big deal for me is how big the build volume is. If you place the part diagonally you can have parts that are 11 inches long. Once you start print things for your household (brackets, mounts, frames, power tool holders, organizers) you will be glad. My office worker got the mini select and i had to print a bracket so he could mount his router to the wall. The only thing he can print are small toy like objects or smaller screw clips. Speaking of printing large objects on this printer, the build surface is the 3M PEI also known as Buildtak. It really works well but the bigger objects are hard to remove from the build plate. Heating the bed is no help - I have read other people hitting the object with a hammer but that will throw off the level of the bed. I have found a much better solution with is to build the object using the raft option that is available in the slicer software included on the SD card. As last resort I have used a heat gun to soften the PLA on a corner of the print object to get the paint scraper under the print. Do not use the include paint scraper that comes with the printer because it has a 90 degree edge that will scrape the surface, find a print removal tool that has rounded edges. I got a set of 5 tools all with rounded edges for around $9 online but you get pick these up at any hobby store under the paint supply area - ask for a painters steel palette knife. The other day I turned on the printer and the fan motor on the controller box started to make a loud noise but would go away after about 3 minutes. I searched the web for solutions and it involves putting a drop of oil the fan bearings which is located in the middle of the fan covered by a sticker by the manufacturer. When doing this it is important not to use WD-40 because that is a degreaser, instead use light sewing machine oil or PFTE oil. To get to the fan you have to remove 4 screws on the back on the control unit and 2 screws keeping the DC fan in place. It was simple and only took 5 minutes. I also noticed that the fan on the controller box appears to be the same one used on the filament fan and hot end fan. This is good because you basically have a spare dc fan. I will eventually replace the fan on the controller fan with a larger one that does not produce as much noise. The fan adapter plates can be found online for free. Also, if you move the fan to the outside of the controller box it does not make as much noise, make sure the not to reverse the air flow, it should blow air out of the controller box. Make sure you watch and re-watch videos on how to adjust the bed because you can damage and possible bend the build plate if the nozzle press down on the plate to hard. Use the paper / dollar bill method to verify the bed is at the right height, other methods may cause problems. Once your build plate is bent, your larger prints will no longer stick and which is very frustrating. If the build plate gets bent you have a few options. 1) Replace the build plate. 2) try printing with a heated build chamber 3) print on glass 4) use a KISSlicer which has a feature to compensate for print beds that have a crown( are no longer flat - typically the middle is lower and corners are higher) 5) where the bed is lower that the rest of the plate, put a few strips of blue tape in the valleys which kinda like filling in potholes.. I have include a photo done with wood PLA. I also printed a watch charger and stand. If you are not going to spend over $500 for a more advance printer then get this exact model -- it simply does not get any better at this price point. I am going put the printer through it paces for the next few months and if all goes well another star will be added to this review. Hope this helps others, happy printing.
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- Reviewed in the United States on December 19, 2016
- Reviewed in the United States on June 25, 2016
Top reviews from other countries
- Jason T.Reviewed in Canada on November 9, 2016
Easily the best printer for the price
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