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The line and load wires were easy to join with wire nuts. It doesn't matter which wire goes to which on the switch so long as you keep the two line and loads for each switch straight from each other. This wasn't a worry for me since I removed and then installed one switch at a time. Also, one of the switches I removed was a dimmer. I chose to install this single pole switch and lose the dimming because The KS225 Matter dimming switch is slightly deeper than the KS205 single pole and I was worried my wall plate wouldn't be flush.
My old switches had a raw copper wire for the ground. You know it's the ground because a) it has no rubber coating (at least in my case) and b) it's not really "connected" to anything, just attached to some metal part of the switch. The smart switches use green for their grounds. Use the supplied wire nuts to join them.
For the neutral wire, you should be fine so long as your house was built in 1985 or later. Dumb switches don't use them, but this smart switch requires them. I was a bit perplexed when I opened my 2-gang light plate to see three white wires with one wire nut on them. Two switches, three wires. When I Googled, I found out that multi-gang switches are often on a single circuit. I knew this was true for me, because one breaker switch turned off both of the lights these go to. All three wires have to stay together. Since I was installing two smart switches, I paired my neutral wires with the three (which were tightly twisted together under the wire nut), then screwed the wire nut back on. Gave them a few tugs to make sure they were tight, and I was good to go.
Getting all my spaghetti wires put back in the junction box was a task, but I managed. Then I used the new screws to attach the switches to the junction box. Make sure you're using the wide holes for this, otherwise they aren't going to match when you go to do the second one. The wide holes also allow you to slide them side to side as you adjust the spacing for the wall plate to line up.
For the wall plate, I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K8Z6K2P?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
They aren't completely "screwless". There's a plate that you screw to the switches, which was pretty easy to do and lets you get those switches spaced and lined up just right. Once you have them where you want them, there's an access hole to the actual screws that attach the switches to the junction box, so now you can tighten those up. Then you pop on the pretty part of the cover!
I gotta say, when we flipped the breaker back on, I did take several steps back just in case, and stayed far away the first time I turned them on after the easy-peasy setup with my Google Home app. No sparks, no fires, just glorious light!
If you're confused about the whole "requires a hub for Matter", I'm not really sure what they mean by that. I'm all Google/Android in my house and this makes 4 TP-Link Matter smart devices I've set up now and I don't have a hub of any kind. I don't even install the Kasa or Tapo app, I just scan the QR codes in my Google Home app. 🤷♀️
Pro tip: the extra stickers that come with the switches... make sure you don't mix them up if you are installing more than one at a time. The Matter code is also on the front of the switch, but that gets covered up by the screw on part of the wall plate I used. If you use the supplied wall plate, there's no extra screw on step, it just pops on and off and you can see the code. For now, I wrote on the back of the sticker which one goes with which switch, but I think I'll pop the gold cover off and just stick them directly to the plate that I screwed in.
For someone that isn't usually a DIY-er and has some fine motor movement issues due to a disability, I'd rank this a 2 out of 5 for difficulty. Now that I've done it once, the next ones will be even easier.
I'm very happy with my purchase and very happy with myself for accomplishing this!
