I have over 50 smart WiFi devices connected to a Google Mesh home network. The 20+ TP-Link smart devices in the network perform without a technical hitch and are reliable. The Kasa/TP-Link (KP200) WiFi two-outlet, in-wall receptacle is no exception. IF it is installed properly (see below), the KP200 works well and is easy to install (neutral white wire required!!). WARNING FOR AMATEUR ELECTRICIANS (like me): I am NOT an electrician, however, I've personally replaced most of the wall switches and receptacles in my home without a single issue. I have also replaced ceiling fans, light fixtures and bathroom exhaust fans -- also without any issues. So, I was very confident installing he KP200 would be another cakewalk. However, this time I got in a little over my head installing the KP200, and it required an EXPENSIVE visit by a licensed electrician to make things right again. I learned, here in Arizona (and probably other states too), the safety code requires ANY WALL RECEPTACLE (outlet) within 15 feet of running water (such as kitchen sink or bathroom sink/tub/shower) must be a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). This is also sometimes called a "GFI outlet." My "open concept" kitchen area has eight wall receptacles (all with NO "GFCI" markings or the usual GFI test/reset buttons); therefore, I did not know they were GFCI. About 14 feet from my kitchen sink is a "pantry" -- which is far enough away from the kitchen sink not to worry about water splashing. The pantry has two above-counter wall receptacles (which I later learned are UNMARKED GFCI receptacles). So, when I replaced one of the UNMARKED GFCI outlets with the KP200, everything went to hell in a handbasket. The KP200 would not work properly, AND the other seven "kitchen" outlets were inoperable as well. In short (pun intended), the electrician said the KP200 is NOT a GFCI unit, and replacing the GFCI with the KP200 -- not only violated the state's electrical code, but it was also created a substantial safety hazard by breaking the chain of protection provided by the eight outlets connected to the unmarked GFCI circuit. (Once I went to the outside electrical panel, it was visually obvious some of the breakers were GFCI, but inside the home, nothing indicates their GFCI status). Although the electrician has an excellent reputation for quality work, he is "VERY OLD SCHOOL." As such, there are TWO THINGS he absolutely HATES: (1) ALL home automation smart devices (don't even mention the word - "Alexa" to him); (2) ANY "weekend-warrior" homeowner who is not a licensed electrician and does his own electrical work. That said, I not only received a very stern verbal admonishment regarding electrical safety, I also received an invoice for $150. (I think some of the $150 was punitive.) Expensive lesson learn. So, BEFORE you swap-out your old electrical outlet for a TP-LINK KP200, be CERTAIN it is NOT an UNMARKED CFCI receptacle. By the way, the next day, I installed the KP200 in a bedroom, and it works as expected! It is an excellent and reliable name-brand product! ONE LAST CAVEAT: I only purchase smart devices made by large, well-established technology companies, such as TP-Link. Why? Most "Internet of Things" (IOT) smart devices COMMUNICATE to the world outside your home in order to function. That means IOT devices are potentially the WEAKEST LINK in your home Internet/network security. In other words, you need to purchase IOT devices from companies that have the financial resources and technical expertise to update BOTH the firmware and software of their products -- as the product ages. This updating helps defend your home network against hackers who exploit "cheap," no-name IOT device to gain access to the rest of your home network, computers, smartphones, tablets, and etc. I hope this helps.